(6.864m)

This is the third highest mountain in the Andes range, the highest mountain in Chile, and also the highest active volcano in the world. It is situated 260km east of the Chilean city of Copiapó.

Days 1 and 2: Fly to Santiago de Chile, the capital of Chile, and travel to Copiapó, the capital of the Atacama region 800km north of Santiago. In this small pretty town we spend the night in the Hotel Inti.

Day 3: At 14:00 we leave by 4 x 4 on a 2 hour journey to Vallecito, a small oasis situated 120km east of Copiapó. Already at 3,100m above sea level, it makes a good spot to spend our first night. For the evening, we climb a small nearby mountain as our first acclimatisation exercise. We then set up camp and make our evening meal.

Day 4: At 11:00 after breakfast and packing up our camp, we drive 34km to Santa Rosa Lake (3.780m). Here we set up camp, have lunch and in the afternoon set off on an excursion around the banks of the lake, which is home to many flamencos. Here we have our evening meal and spend the night.

Day 5: After breakfast at 8:00, we set off on a route to the summit of Cerro Siete Hermanos, the Hill of the Seven Brothers (4.780m). This route has a total climb of 1,000 metres and takes approximately 4 hours to reach the summit via paths and scree faces no steeper than 30º. As this is an acclimatisation exercise, we only need a day-pack containing sufficient water, some light food, extra clothing and suncream. From the summit, we have a fantastic view of the Santa Rosa lake and its surrounding mountains. We then make our way back to our camp, where we have lunch and spend the rest of the afternoon. Here we have our evening meal and spend the night again.

Day 6: Breakfast at 8:30. At 11:00 after packing up our camp, we travel one and a half hours by vehicle to the Laguna Verde (Green Lake) 4,340m. We will set up our camp beside the natural thermal springs, where we can enjoy a good bath. Here we have our lunch and evening meal, and spend the night.

Day 7: Breakfast at 8:00. At 9:00 we set off on our next route to the summit of the Cerro Mulas Muertas, via its north face. This is a 3 hour route of gentle gradient covering easy terrain of small stones and sand. As this is again an acclimatisation exercise, we only need a day-pack with contents similiar to our first route. On this route we reach 5,000m and afterwards return to our camp by the lake where we have our evening meal and spend the night.

Day 8: Breakfast at 8:30, and at 11:00 after packing up our camp, we travel by vehicle towards the Atacama Refuge (5,260m). As part of the acclimatisation process, the group walk from 5,000m while the vehicles transport their belongings the remainder of the journey. This is a 2 hour walk over sandy ground and gentle gradient, following the path of the 4 x 4. Once at the refuge, we set up camp and spend the rest of the day here. Again, we have an evening meal and spend the night at the refuge, where the nightly temperatures are usually as low as -10ºC.

Day 9: Breakfast at 8:30. At 10:00 we go on foot to the Tejos Refuge (5,837m). Each member of the expedition is required to cary at least 5kgs of communal equipment needed for the expedition (tents, gas, food, etc.). This part of the route takes about 3 hours, during which we cover mixed terrain of both sand and stones, following the path of the 4 x 4. We descend again to the Atacama Refuge where we have lunch, an evening meal, and spend the night.

Day 10: Breakfast at 8:00. For the morning we make our preparations and following a light lunch at 12.00, set off towards the Tejos Refuge, this time to stay the night. Each member of the expedition must carry his/her personal items. At the refuge, we set up camp and at 17:00 have our evening meal. Then we make all final preparations for the next day: the summit of the Ojos del Salado Volcano. Here the nightly temperatures are usually as low as -20ºC.

Day 11: Breakfast at 4:00. We start off our route to the summit by following a well marked path over sandy terrain, with gradients gradually reaching 40º. At 6,550m we traverse an ice-field about 100m long and of a 35º gradient. We then continue our ascent to the crater of the volcano, and from here climbing accross big rocks reach a rock wall 30m high. This cliff is a grade III climb for which we will secure a rope. Once over this wall, we reach the summit. The ascent should take 8 hours in total. Each member of the expedition must be suitably equipped for temperatures reaching -30ºC and wind speeds of 80 km/h, and carry crampons and ice-axe for the ice-field traverse, some light food and a water container with a capacity of at least 1 litre. We descend by the same route and reach the Tejos Refuge some 4 hours later. Here we rest for one hour, warm ourselves up with a hot drink, take down our camp from the previous night, and continue to the Atacama Refuge where we have our evening meal and spend the night.

Day 12: Extra day. Should there be bad weather, we can use this day for a second attempt on the summit.

Day 13: Breakfast at 9:00. At 11:00 after packing up our camp and belongings, we return by 4 x 4 to the city of Copiapó. On the way we stop for a light lunch and should arrive in Copiapó at around 18:00. In just under an hour from here we arrive at the quiet beach town of Caldera, where we spend the night in the Montecarlo Hotel.

Day 14: Sunshine, beach, fresh fish and relaxation in Caldera.

Day 15: From the airport at Copiapó, we return via Santiago where our expedition ends.

If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me.

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